How Do You Make Compost: The Ultimate Guide to Turning Waste into Garden Gold

Introduction to Composting for Beginners

Every day, households generate millions of tonnes of waste, much of which ends up in landfills or incinerators. Yet, up to 80% of this "rubbish" need never leave our homes at all. Instead, it could be transformed into a valuable resource right in our gardens. So, how do you make compost?

Home composting is the practice of turning household organic items such as kitchen scraps or garden waste into nutrient-rich soil improver. This practice uses various techniques to speed up and optimise natural decomposition processes that would otherwise occur in our environment at a much slower pace.

It is perhaps the single most impactful environmental action everyone can do at home. Making your own compost diverts waste from landfills (where it would generate methane, a potent greenhouse gas), reduces the carbon footprint of waste collection, and creates a free, high-quality soil improver that benefits your garden and the wider ecosystem.

In this post, we will walk you through everything you need to know about how to start composting—from understanding the science behind the process to choosing the right system for your space, troubleshooting common problems, and making the most of your homemade compost.

Whether you have a spacious garden, a small patio, or even just a kitchen, there's a composting solution for you. Let's dive in and discover how to make your own compost heap and turn your waste into garden gold.

Why Start Composting? Environmental & Garden Benefits

Slash Your Bin Waste & Reduce Landfill Impact

When food and garden waste ends up in landfill, it decomposes without oxygen (anaerobically), generating methane—a greenhouse gas 28 times more potent than carbon dioxide. Globally, landfilled biodegradable waste is a significant contributor to climate change.

By learning how to make compost at home, you directly prevent these emissions. A single home composter can divert approximately 150 kg of organic waste from landfill each year. Multiply that across millions of households, and the potential impact is staggering.

Additionally, you'll reduce the volume of waste requiring collection—cutting down on the fuel, emissions, and costs associated with waste transportation. Many households find they can dramatically reduce their general waste once they start composting garden waste and kitchen scraps.

In our own household, we've been amazed at the transformation. Since fully embracing composting with our Eco-Rhythm framework, our bins now sit half-empty even after 2-3 months—a dramatic change from our previous frequent collections. And we're not extreme zero-waste practitioners—just ordinary people who practice home composting and stick to natural products as much as possible. When you divert all of your home compostable waste to make your own compost, you'll be surprised how little actual 'rubbish' remains in your general waste bin.

Create Free, Nutrient-Rich Soil Improver ("Black Gold")

Commercial fertilisers and soil improvers can be expensive, with quality compost costing $5-10/£5-10 per bag. By making compost at home, you produce what gardeners affectionately call "black gold"—a rich, crumbly soil amendment packed with nutrients and beneficial microorganisms.

Homemade compost typically contains:

• Macro-nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) essential for plant growth
• Micro-nutrients (copper, zinc, manganese, etc.) that support plant health
• Organic matter that improves soil structure and water retention
• Living microorganisms that support soil health and plant immunity

Unlike chemical fertilisers, which can leach into waterways causing pollution, compost releases nutrients slowly and sustainably. It's nature's perfect plant food, and you've made it for free from what would otherwise be waste.

Improve Soil Health & Biology

Soils worldwide face numerous challenges—from compaction and erosion to declining organic matter content. Adding homemade compost is one of the most effective ways to regenerate soil health:

• In heavy clay soils, compost improves drainage and aeration, making the soil easier to work
• In sandy soils, compost increases water retention and nutrient-holding capacity
• In chalky or limestone-rich soils, compost helps moderate the high pH and improves moisture retention

Beyond these physical benefits, compost introduces and feeds beneficial soil organisms—from earthworms and beneficial nematodes to mycorrhizal fungi and beneficial bacteria. These organisms create a living soil web that supports plant growth, suppresses diseases, and continues the cycle of breaking down organic matter into plant-available nutrients.

Boost Garden Biodiversity

A compost pile is more than just a waste processing facility—it's a thriving ecosystem in its own right. Research has shown that a typical compost heap hosts thousands of species, from microscopic bacteria to fungi, insects, and even small vertebrates.

This biodiversity extends beyond the heap itself. Gardens with healthy, compost-enriched soil support more plant diversity, which in turn attracts more insects, birds, and other wildlife. By learning how to make a compost pile, you're creating a foundation for a biodiverse garden that forms an important habitat in our increasingly developed landscape.

Reduce Your Carbon Footprint

Making your own compost significantly reduces your carbon footprint through multiple mechanisms:

• Preventing methane emissions from landfilled organic waste
• Reducing the fossil fuels used in waste collection and processing
• Decreasing reliance on peat-based compost (the extraction of which releases stored carbon and damages rare habitats)
• Storing carbon in the soil when compost is added to your garden
• Reducing the need for manufactured fertilisers, which are energy-intensive to produce

According to research, composting one tonne of organic waste at home rather than sending it to landfill can save approximately 538 kg of CO₂ equivalent emissions.

The Science Behind How Do You Make Compost

Understanding the science behind composting will help you make good compost faster and troubleshoot any issues that arise. For composting beginners, knowing these basics makes a huge difference in success.

The Recipe: Balancing Greens & Browns (Carbon & Nitrogen)

Successful composting requires a balanced diet of carbon-rich "browns" and nitrogen-rich "greens":

Browns (Carbon-Rich Materials):

• Dead leaves
• Cardboard and paper (torn/shredded)
• Straw or hay
• Woody prunings
• Sawdust (untreated wood)
• Corn cobs and stalks

These materials:

• Provide energy for decomposer organisms
• Create air pockets in the pile
• Balance moisture levels
• Prevent odours

Greens (Nitrogen-Rich Materials):

• Fruit and vegetable scraps
• Grass clippings
• Fresh plant trimmings
• Coffee grounds
• Tea leaves (not bags, unless plastic-free)
• Certain animal manures (chicken, rabbit, horse)

These materials:

• Provide protein-building nutrients for microbes
• Accelerate decomposition
• Generate heat in the pile

The ideal carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is approximately 30:1 (30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen by weight). In practical terms, this typically translates to a volume ratio of 2-3 parts browns to 1 part greens in your compost.

Too many greens causes a soggy, smelly pile as excess nitrogen converts to ammonia; too many browns results in slow decomposition due to insufficient nitrogen for microbial growth.

Essential Ingredients: Air & Water

Besides carbon and nitrogen, composting microorganisms need:

Air (Oxygen): Composting is primarily an aerobic process—it requires oxygen. Without sufficient air, anaerobic microbes take over, producing foul odours and slowing decomposition. This is why turning or aerating your compost is important.

Water: Microorganisms need moisture to function effectively. The ideal compost has the dampness of a wrung-out sponge—moist enough to support microbial life but not so wet that it excludes air.

Temperature: As microbes digest material, they generate heat. In a well-balanced heap with sufficient volume (at least 1 cubic metre/yard), temperatures can rise to 40-60°C (104-140°F) in the centre. This heat accelerates decomposition and helps kill weed seeds and pathogens.

Wish to dive deeper? No problem! Check out The Science of Home Composting: How Organic Waste Becomes Garden Gold.

How Do I Start Composting? Choosing Your Method & Bin

Before diving into composting, it's important to assess your situation and choose a method that fits your space, lifestyle, and the types of waste you generate. For composting beginners, selecting the right system is a critical first step.

Assess Your Space & Needs

Consider the following factors:

• Available space: Garden size, patio, balcony, or indoor only?
• Amount of waste: How much kitchen/garden waste do you generate?
• Types of waste: Primarily kitchen scraps, garden waste, or both?
• Time commitment: How much effort are you willing to invest?
• Budget: How much are you prepared to spend on a system?
• Appearance concerns: Is visual appeal important?
• Climate considerations: Your local weather affects composting

Hot vs. Cold Composting

There are two main approaches to making a compost pile:

Hot Composting:

• Requires careful management of carbon/nitrogen balance, moisture, and aeration
• Pile heats up significantly (40-60°C/104-140°F)
• Materials break down quickly (2-3 months possible)
• Kills most weed seeds and pathogens
• Requires regular turning and monitoring

Cold Composting:

• More relaxed approach—add materials as they become available
• Pile stays at or near ambient temperature
• Decomposition is slower (6-24 months)
• May not kill all weed seeds or plant diseases
• Requires minimal maintenance

In many climates, gardeners practice a hybrid approach—their compost may heat up during summer months or after adding lots of nitrogen-rich material, but generally operates as a cold system, especially in winter.

How to Make a Compost Bin: Open Piles / Traditional Bins

How to Use a Compost Bin: Compost Tumblers

Description: Sealed drums mounted on frames that can be rotated to mix and aerate the contents.

Pros:

• Easier mixing/aeration than static bins
• Faster decomposition when properly managed
• Pest-resistant (raised and enclosed)
• Cleaner appearance than open heaps
• Dual-chamber models allow continuous composting

Cons:

• More expensive than static bins
• Limited capacity compared to open heaps
• Can be heavy to turn when full
• Assembly typically required
• Some models may leak "compost tea"

Best for: Households with medium gardens, those concerned about pests, or gardeners who want faster results with moderate effort.

Hot Bins (Insulated Systems)

Description: Insulated composting bins designed to maintain high temperatures for rapid decomposition.

Pros:

• Very fast composting (30-90 days possible)
• Works year-round in most climates
• Can compost a wider range of materials including cooked food, meat, dairy
• Kills weed seeds and pathogens
• Highly pest-resistant

Cons:

• Expensive initial investment
• Requires careful management of inputs and moisture
• May need additional "bulking agent" (e.g., woodchip)
• Smaller capacity than traditional heaps
• Steeper learning curve

Best for: Serious composters, those wanting to compost food waste including meat/dairy, or gardeners with limited space who want quick results.

Wormeries (Vermicomposting)

Description: Contained systems where special composting worms (usually 'tiger worms' - Eisenia fetida) process organic matter.

Pros:

• Excellent for processing kitchen waste
• Suitable for small spaces, patios, balconies, even indoors
• Produces very high-quality compost (worm castings)
• Creates liquid fertiliser "worm tea"
• Minimal odour when managed correctly
• Educational and engaging

Cons:

• Limited capacity for garden waste
• Temperature sensitive (needs protection from extremes)
• Requires specific composting worms
• Some learning curve for proper management
• Can attract fruit flies if overfed

Best for: Households with limited outdoor space, those generating primarily kitchen waste, or gardeners wanting high-quality plant feed.

Bokashi Bins

Description: An anaerobic fermentation system using special microbe-infused bran to pickle food waste.

Pros:

• Processes ALL food waste including meat, fish, dairy
• Compact for kitchens and indoor use
• No odours when properly sealed
• Produces liquid fertiliser during fermentation
• Quick initial processing (2-4 weeks)

Cons:

• Two-stage process—fermented material needs burial or secondary composting
• Requires ongoing purchase of Bokashi bran
• Typically need two bins for continuous processing
• Produces an acidic pre-compost, not finished compost

Best for: Apartment dwellers, those wanting to compost meat/dairy, or as a pre-treatment system feeding into a garden compost bin.

Wish to learn more about various of composting method? Be sure to check out Choosing the Right Composting Method for Your Lifestyle

How to Start a Compost Pile & Maintain It

Once you've chosen your composting system, it's time to set it up and start the process.

Setting Up

Location: Place your composting system:

• On bare soil if possible (allows drainage and worm access)
• In a partially shaded spot (not too hot or cold)
• Reasonably accessible in all seasons
• Away from buildings if concerned about pests
• With space to work around it for turning/harvesting

Assembly: Follow the manufacturer's instructions for purchased systems. For DIY bins, ensure sufficient aeration and access for adding materials and removing finished compost.

How Do You Make a Compost Pile: Building Your First Heap

Layering technique: While not strictly necessary, layering helps achieve a good mix when starting your compost:

1. Start with coarse browns (twigs, pruned stems, or cardboard) for drainage
2. Add a layer of nitrogen-rich greens (kitchen scraps, grass clippings)
3. Cover with a layer of carbon-rich browns
4. Lightly water if dry
5. Repeat these layers as materials become available

Activators: In general, you do not need activators to start your compost. If you want to give it a boost, compost activators add nitrogen and beneficial microbes to jump-start decomposition. Commercial activators are available, but natural options work well:

• Comfrey leaves
• Nettles
• Well-rotted manure
• A handful of finished compost
• Garden soil
• Coffee grounds or even just some finished compost

Activators can be particularly useful when starting a pile during cooler months or when learning how to make your own compost for the first time.

Managing Moisture When Making Compost

Your compost should feel like a wrung-out sponge—moist but not soggy.

Too dry? Signs include:

• Slow decomposition
• Dry, dusty appearance
• Ants nesting in the pile

Solutions:

• Add water while turning the pile
• Include more green (high-moisture) materials
• Cover during hot summer periods to retain moisture

Too wet? Signs include:

• Slimy texture
• Unpleasant odour
• Few air pockets

Solutions:

• Add dry brown materials (cardboard, dry leaves, shredded paper)
• Turn the pile to introduce air
• Cover during heavy rainfall periods
• Ensure adequate drainage

In damp climates, having a store of dry browns is essential for maintaining the right moisture balance when making your own compost.

Ensuring Aeration for Good Compost

Oxygen is vital for aerobic decomposition. Without it, your compost will become anaerobic, producing unpleasant smells and slowing the process.

Turning methods:

• Traditional bins: Use a garden fork to lift and fluff materials every 4-6 weeks
• Tumblers: Rotate the drum every few days
• Static bins: Consider inserting a perforated pipe vertically through the centre or using a compost aerator tool

When to turn:

• When adding significant new material
• If you notice odours developing
• If the pile becomes compacted or waterlogged
• To incorporate materials from the outer edges
• To check progress and mix partially decomposed materials

For those with limited mobility or time, even occasional turning will improve results compared to no turning at all when making compost.

Composting for Beginners: Timeline Expectations

The time to produce finished compost varies based on:

• Composting method (hot vs cold)
• Materials used (size and type)
• Management practices (turning frequency, moisture control)
• Seasonal temperatures

Typical timelines when making your own compost:

• Hot composting: 3-4 months with optimal conditions
• Traditional cold composting: 6-12+ months
• Tumbler composting: 4-8 months with regular turning
• Worm composting: Harvestable castings in 3-6 months
• Bokashi: Initial fermentation in 2-4 weeks, then 2-4 more months when buried

Seasonal note: Expect slower decomposition during winter months when temperatures are lower. Consider insulating your bin with cardboard, straw bales, or old carpet during cold spells to maintain microbial activity.

What CAN You Put in Your Compost Pile?

One of the most common questions for composting beginners is what materials can safely go into the bin. Here's a comprehensive guide to help you make good compost.

The "Greens" (Nitrogen-Rich)

These materials are typically moist, fresh, and break down quickly when composting:

Fruit and vegetable scraps:

• All fruit and vegetable peelings, cores, and trimmings
• Overripe or spoiled fruits and vegetables
• Even citrus peels (in moderation)

Garden materials:

• Grass clippings (thin layers to prevent compaction)
• Fresh plant trimmings and spent bedding plants
• Soft, green prunings
• Annual weeds (without seeds)
• Faded flowers

Kitchen and household items:

• Coffee grounds and paper filters
• Loose tea leaves (not tea bags unless plastic-free)
• Crushed eggshells (these decompose slowly)
• Hair and nail clippings
• Natural fibres (cotton, hemp, linen, wool, bamboo, wood) in small pieces

Special considerations when starting a compost bin:

• Tea bags: Many tea bags contain plastic or bioplastic (PLA) sealants that require industrial composting. Only use tea bags specifically labeled as home compostable, or empty the leaves into your compost and dispose of the bag separately.
• Coffee grounds: These are widely available for free from many coffee shops if you need extra nitrogen-rich material for your homemade compost.

The "Browns" (Carbon-Rich)

These materials are typically dry, woody, and break down more slowly when composting:

Paper and cardboard:

• Cardboard (torn or shredded, remove tape)
• Egg cartons (paper type, not foam)
• Toilet roll and kitchen roll tubes
• Non-glossy paper and newspaper
• Paper bags and packaging (not laminated)

Garden materials:

• Autumn leaves (these can be stored in a separate leaf mold bin)
• Small twigs and woody prunings (chopped if possible)
• Straw or hay (slightly dampened if very dry)
• Pine needles (use sparingly as they're acidic)
• Hedge trimmings (shredded)

Other carbon sources for making compost:

• Sawdust and wood shavings (from untreated wood)
• Natural cork (broken into pieces)
• Nutshells (crushed, except walnut shells which can inhibit plant growth)
• Used potting compost (peat-free)

Seasonal tip for composting garden waste: Collect and store autumn leaves in bags or a wire bin to use as a carbon source throughout the year. We often have a surplus of "greens" (especially grass clippings) in spring and summer, so storing autumn browns helps maintain balance when making your own compost.

Quick Reference Guide: What to Compost

Material	Can You Compost It?	Notes
Fruit & veg scraps	Yes	Core "green" material
Grass clippings	Yes	Add in thin layers
Coffee grounds	Yes	Excellent "green" material
Tea leaves	Yes	Empty from bags unless plastic-free
Cardboard	Yes	Tear/shred, remove tape
Paper	Yes	Avoid glossy magazines
Autumn leaves	Yes	Excellent "brown" material
Eggshells	Yes	Crush for faster breakdown
Small twigs	Yes	Break/chop for faster decomposition
Natural fibres	Yes	Cut into small pieces

What You Might Prefer to Keep OUT of Your Compost

While composting is versatile, you may hear advice that certain materials should be avoided. While in general, the concerns are legitimate, some composters might feel comfortable dealing with them without any problem. The general principle in nature is whatever is organic can be broken down in your compost. The list below includes materials some composters may prefer not to deal with in their home composting systems.

Meat, Fish, Bones, Dairy, Fats/Oils

Why some composters prefer to avoid these?

• Attract pests (particularly in urban areas)
• Can create unpleasant odours
• May not reach high enough temperatures in typical home compost to kill pathogens
• Oils can coat materials, reducing aeration and slowing decomposition

Alternative disposal:

• Municipal food waste collection (if available in your area)
• Hot composting systems/bins designed to handle these materials safely
• Bokashi fermentation before adding to compost

How to handle these materials: At Echoing Green Earth, we handle various of bones and shells by simply drying them up and grinding them down before adding them into our compost bin.

Diseased Plants & Problematic Weeds

Plants showing disease symptoms:

• Blight-affected tomato/potato plants
• Plants with clear fungal infections
• Clubroot-infected brassicas

These should go in municipal green waste collections where industrial composting temperatures will kill pathogens.

Problematic weeds when making a compost pile:

• Perennial weeds with persistent root systems (bindweed, quack grass, etc.)
• Weeds with viable seeds
• Invasive species (check local regulations)

Note: If you're not confident dealing with these materials, municipal green waste collection is a safe disposal method, as industrial composting reaches temperatures high enough to kill most weed seeds and pathogens. Alternative pre-treatment for weeds includes drying thoroughly in the sun before composting or soaking in water for several weeks to rot them first. If you use hot composting bins, they provide effective ways of dealing with these problematic materials.

Pet Waste (Dog/Cat)

Why beginners should avoid it?:

• Contains pathogens harmful to humans
• May contain parasites
• Risk of contaminating food crops
• Often doesn't break down well in standard home composting systems

Alternative disposal:

• If you are adventurous, special pet waste composters are available
• General waste bins (in appropriate bags)
• Some localities now allow dog waste in general waste bins rather than requiring special dog bins (please check your local council regulations)

Exception: Waste from herbivorous pets (rabbits, guinea pigs, hamsters) can usually be composted safely as it's similar to other animal manures. Still, it's best used on ornamental rather than food crops.

Non-Compostable Items

Many products are labeled "biodegradable" or "compostable" but aren't suitable for home composting:

Compostable plastics:

• Most compostable or biodegradable plastic bags, packaging, and utensils are designed for industrial composting facilities, not home heaps
• Research shows that many supposedly "home compostable" plastics fail to break down properly in home composting conditions
• Unless specifically certified for home composting (look for the TÜV Austria "OK Compost HOME" certification), these items should go in general waste

Tea bags:

• As mentioned earlier, most tea bags contain plastic or bioplastic that won't break down in home compost
• Use loose tea or certified home compostable bags, or empty contents into compost and bin the bag

Treated wood:

• Unless specified with environmentally friendly option such as vegetable oil, wood treated with synthetic preservatives, paint, or varnish can potentially contaminate compost with chemicals
• Dispose of these via recycling centers

Other items to avoid when making compost:

• Coal ash (contains substances harmful to plants)
• Glossy or color-printed paper (may contain plastic toxic inks, unless plant ink is specified)
• Vacuum cleaner contents (may contain inorganic materials, micro plastics)
• Cigarette butts (contain chemicals and non-biodegradable filters)

Inorganic Materials

These will never break down in a compost heap:

• Plastic (all types)
• Glass
• Metal
• Synthetic fabrics
• Rubber
• Stones/gravel
• Ceramic

These should be recycled through appropriate channels or disposed of as general waste.

Further information about home compostable products, please visit Compostable Products: What Actually Breaks Down (And What Doesn’t)

Troubleshooting: How Do You Make Compost When Problems Arise

Even experienced composters occasionally encounter issues. Here's how to diagnose and solve the most common problems when making your own compost.

Smells Bad (Ammonia/Rotten Eggs)

Ammonia smell (sharp, acrid odour):

• Cause: Too much nitrogen (too many "greens")
• Solution: Add carbon-rich browns (cardboard, dry leaves, shredded paper) and turn the pile to incorporate

Rotten egg/sulphur smell:

• Cause: Anaerobic conditions (too wet, compacted, or poor aeration)
• Solution: Turn the pile thoroughly to introduce oxygen, add dry, bulky materials, and ensure proper drainage

Putrid smell:

• Cause: Tricky materials (meat, dairy) or very wet conditions
• Solution: Break up materials if possible, add plenty of browns, and turn thoroughly

Weather note: During wet seasons, compost can easily become waterlogged. Keep a store of dry browns (perhaps in a shed or garage) to add when needed, and consider covering your bin during particularly rainy periods to make good compost.

Attracting Pests While Composting

Fruit flies/house flies:

• Cause: Exposed food waste, especially fruit
• Solution: Always bury fresh kitchen waste under 5-10cm of existing compost or brown materials. For wormeries, keep a layer of damp newspaper or cardboard on top.

Rats/mice:

• Cause: Food scraps (especially meat, bread, cooked food) and/or easy access. In the winter, they also like the warmth in the compost.
• Solution:
  • Avoid meat, dairy, and cooked foods in open heaps
  • Use a bin with a solid base or place on wire mesh to prevent burrowing
  • Consider a fully enclosed system like a tumbler or hot bin
  • Locate bins away from walls, fences, or structures that pests could use to climb in
  • Keep area around bin clear and tidy

Midges/gnats:

• Cause: Excessive moisture
• Solution: Add dry browns and ensure proper drainage

Context: If you live in a location with known pest issues, extra precautions may be necessary when making compost, such as using only fully enclosed composting systems for food waste.

Why Isn't My Compost Heating Up / Decomposing Slowly?

Causes:

• Pile too small (needs critical mass to generate/retain heat)
• Insufficient nitrogen (too many browns)
• Insufficient moisture
• Cold weather
• Poor aeration
• Materials too large

Solutions for making good compost:

• Ensure pile is at least 1m³/yard³ for effective heating
• Add nitrogen-rich materials (grass clippings, food scraps, or even a small amount of high-nitrogen fertiliser)
• Moisten if dry, but don't soak
• Chop or shred materials to increase surface area
• Turn thoroughly to introduce oxygen
• Insulate during cold weather (surround with straw bales or use a compost duvet)

Seasonal tip: Many home compost heaps naturally slow down during winter. This is normal. You can continue adding materials throughout winter (they'll break down once temperatures rise), or use a hot composting system if year-round decomposition is important to you.

Too Wet or Too Dry Compost?

Too wet (soggy, compacted, possibly smelly):

• Causes: Excess rain exposure, too many wet greens, poor drainage
• Solutions:
  • Add dry browns (cardboard, dry leaves, shredded paper, sawdust)
  • Turn to introduce air
  • Cover to protect from rain
  • Improve drainage at base
  • Consider adding a perforated pipe vertically through the pile for aeration

Too dry (dusty, not breaking down):

• Causes: Insufficient greens, lack of watering, hot weather
• Solutions:
  • Add water gradually while turning
  • Include more fresh green materials
  • Cover to prevent moisture loss in hot weather

Weather consideration: In many climates, having plenty of browns on hand is usually more important than worrying about dryness, especially during rainy seasons.

For more troubleshooting, please visit Composting Success: Key Factors, Common Problems and Solutions

Harvesting and Using Your Homemade Compost

After months of diligently making compost, you'll be rewarded with rich, earthy "black gold" ready to nourish your garden.

How to Know When Compost is Ready

Finished compost has these characteristics:

• Dark brown to black color
• Crumbly, soil-like texture
• Earthy, pleasant smell (like forest soil)
• Original materials no longer recognizable (except for some slower items like eggshells or woody bits)
• Volume reduced by roughly 50-70% from original
• Cool temperature (no longer actively heating)

Depending on your method, this typically takes:

• 6-12+ months for cold composting
• 3-6 months for actively managed turning
• 1-3 months for hot composting systems
• 3-6 months for worm composting

Getting it Out & Sifting

Harvesting methods:

• Traditional bins: Remove the bin if possible, or use a hatch at the bottom. The finished compost is usually at the bottom while newer materials remain at top.
• Tumblers: Stop adding new materials for the final few weeks, then empty when ready.
• Wormeries: Harvest from the bottom tray or use the "side migration" method to separate worms from castings.
• Hot bins: Usually have a door at the bottom for removing finished compost.

Sifting: While optional, sifting creates a finer product:

• Use a purpose-made compost sieve or make one with mesh wire over a frame
• Sift the compost through the screen, returning any unfinished chunks to your active compost bin
• For garden beds, rough sifting or even no sifting is often fine
• For potting mixes or top dressing, finer sifting creates a more uniform product

How Homemade Compost Feeds Your Plants

Compost isn't just a soil additive—it's a complete ecosystem that benefits plants in multiple ways:

Nutrient delivery: Unlike synthetic fertilizers that provide a quick but short-lived nutrient boost, compost slowly releases a balanced spectrum of macro and micronutrients as soil organisms continue to break it down. This matches how plants naturally feed in undisturbed ecosystems.

Soil structure improvement: The complex organic compounds in compost help soil particles form aggregates, creating ideal pore spaces for roots, water, and air—particularly valuable in clay soils that tend to compact in wet weather.

Beneficial microorganisms: Your compost introduces millions of beneficial bacteria and fungi that:

• Help plants access nutrients
• Protect against disease-causing pathogens
• Break down toxins
• Form symbiotic relationships with plant roots

Water management: Compost helps soil manage both drought and heavy rainfall by:

• Increasing water-holding capacity in sandy soils
• Improving drainage in clay soils
• Reducing surface runoff and erosion during heavy rain

Top Ways to Use Your Homemade Compost

Compost is versatile—here are the most effective ways to use it in your garden:

Soil Amendment (Digging In):

• For new beds: Apply a 5-8cm layer and dig or fork it into the top 15-20cm of soil
• For vegetable plots: Incorporate 2-5cm before spring planting
• For poor soil: Use more generously (up to 10cm layer) to rapidly build soil quality

Mulching:

• Apply a 2-5cm layer around established plants, keeping it away from stems
• Particularly beneficial for moisture retention during summer dry spells
• Helps suppress weeds
• Gradually incorporates into soil as worms pull it down

Potting Mixes:

• Mix 1 part sieved compost with 2 parts commercial peat-free compost for containers
• For seed starting, use only small amounts (10-20%) of very mature, fine compost
• For houseplants, mix 1 part compost to 3 parts potting medium

Lawn Care:

• Sift compost finely and spread a thin layer (0.5-1cm) over lawns in spring or autumn
• Rake or brush it in to fill low spots and add nutrients
• Particularly effective for improving heavy clay soil under lawns

Compost Tea:

• Steep finished compost in water (roughly 1:5 ratio) for 24-48 hours
• Strain and use as a gentle liquid fertilizer for potted plants or seedlings
• Can be applied as a foliar spray to boost plant health

Application timing: Late autumn and early spring are ideal times for applying compost to beds. Autumn applications allow winter rains and frost action to work the compost into the soil, while spring applications provide nutrients for the growing season ahead.

Using Unfinished Compost Safely

If you need to empty your bin before everything is fully decomposed, you have options:

As mulch: Partially decomposed compost can be used as a surface mulch around established plants (not seedlings). Keep it away from stems and trunks.

Trench composting: Dig a trench between rows in your vegetable garden and bury the unfinished compost. Cover with at least 15cm of soil. By the next growing season, it will have broken down completely.

Continuing the process: Set aside the unfinished material in a separate heap or bin to finish composting without new additions, or use it as the base layer for your next compost pile.

Caution: Avoid using unfinished compost around young seedlings or incorporating it into soil just before planting, as the continuing decomposition process can temporarily reduce available nitrogen or release compounds that inhibit growth.

For more information about using your finished/unfinished compost, please check out Compost Uses: How to Use Finished and Unfinished Compost in Your Garden

Seasonal Composting: How Do You Make Compost Year-Round?

One of the challenges of composting is adapting to changing seasons throughout the year. Each season brings different materials and conditions.

Spring Kick-Start

Material supply: Spring garden clean-up provides plenty of green material (spent winter vegetables, early weeds, prunings) but possibly less brown material.

Temperature: As soil warms, worms and microbes become more active. Compost heaps that slowed during winter will revive.

Tasks:

• Turn winter-dormant heaps thoroughly to reintroduce oxygen
• Add any stored autumn leaves or cardboard to balance spring greens
• Remove finished compost from the bottom of bins for spring planting
• Start new heaps with a good mix of overwintered materials and fresh greens

Spring tip: Spring is a good time to harvest compost from the bottom of your bin, as you'll need space for the flush of garden waste to come.

Summer Management

Material supply: Abundant nitrogen-rich materials (grass clippings, spent bedding plants, vegetable trimmings) with possibly fewer browns.

Temperature: Hot weather can dry out compost heaps or create very high temperatures in well-managed piles.

Tasks:

• Monitor moisture—add water during dry spells
• Turn frequently to prevent overheating and incorporate oxygen
• Keep a supply of browns to balance lawn clippings and garden waste
• Cover bins in very hot weather to prevent excessive drying
• Take advantage of heat to compost tougher materials quickly

Summer tip: In hot summer weather, place compost bins in partial shade to prevent excessive drying. Consider collecting extra garden waste from neighbors if you have room—summer is peak production time.

Autumn Abundance

Material supply: A wealth of brown material (fallen leaves) plus garden clearance greens.

Temperature: Cooling temperatures slow microbial activity, but the abundance of materials can still generate good heat in well-balanced piles.

Tasks:

• Collect and store fallen leaves—use some in compost and save some for year-round browns
• Shred tougher materials like woody stems before adding
• Take advantage of autumn garden clearance to build large, well-mixed heaps
• Consider insulating bins as weather cools (straw bales work well)

Leaf mold special: Autumn leaves can be composted separately to make leaf mold—a valuable soil conditioner. Simply collect leaves in a wire cage or bags punctured with holes, moisten, and leave for 1-2 years.

Winter Composting

Material supply: Primarily kitchen waste, with fewer garden materials.

Temperature: Cold temperatures significantly slow decomposition, especially in smaller heaps.

Tasks:

• Insulate bins where possible (surrounding with straw bales, cardboard, or old carpet)
• Focus on proper coverage of food scraps to prevent pest issues
• Continue adding materials even though decomposition is slower
• Turn less frequently to preserve heat (unless odors develop)
• Use stored autumn browns to balance winter kitchen scraps

Climate considerations: In milder areas, composting may continue at a moderate pace through winter. In colder regions, expect significant slowing or near-dormancy of the compost process during freezing periods.

Insulated hot composting bin advantage: these systems can maintain microbial activity even during the coldest winters, making them particularly valuable for year-round composting in colder climates.

Making Compost & The Echoing Green Earth Philosophy

Closing the Loop

Home composting embodies the circular principle at the heart of sustainable living. When you make your own compost from kitchen scraps, garden waste, and home compostable products, you complete the nutrient cycle that begins with plants taking elements from the soil.

This closed-loop system mirrors nature's perfect efficiency—where nothing is truly "waste" but rather a resource in transition. By making compost, you:

• Return nutrients to the soil rather than sending them to landfill
• Create new fertility from what would otherwise be discarded
• Reduce the need for manufactured fertilizers and soil amendments
• Complete the "From Nature, Back to Nature" cycle that defines true sustainability

The products you choose matter too. Conventional plastics break this cycle by creating persistent waste. When you opt for naturally derived, home compostable alternatives—like coconut scrub pads instead of plastic scouring pads, or loofah sponges instead of synthetic ones—you ensure that even these items can return to soil at the end of their useful life.

Your "Eco Rhythm"

Composting naturally aligns you with the seasons and cycles of growth and decay. It creates an "Eco Rhythm" that connects your daily habits to the greater patterns of nature:

1. In: Mindfully bring natural materials into your home as foods, products, and garden materials
2. Use: Purposefully utilize these resources in your sustainable life
3. Out: Rather than "throwing away" (there is no "away"), you transform these materials by returning them to nature through home composting. The resulting compost nourishes new growth, and the cycle continues

This rhythm helps us recognize our place within natural systems rather than separate from them. By making your own compost, you transform from a passive consumer of resources into an active participant in nature's regenerative cycles—a core principle of our Eco Rhythm framework.

A Positive Action

In a world of complex environmental challenges, learning how to make compost stands out as a tangible, immediate positive action anyone can take. It's empowering because:

• The results are visible and measurable
• The benefits are both personal (better garden soil) and global (reduced methane emissions)
• It's a daily practice that reinforces your commitment to sustainability
• It's accessible regardless of your housing situation (even small-space options exist)
• It creates connection to the natural processes that sustain all life

Each time you add kitchen scraps to your compost rather than the bin, you're making a choice for a healthier planet—a small act that, multiplied across millions of households, could transform our relationship with waste.

Conclusion: How Do You Make Compost Successfully?

Making your own compost is one of the most rewarding sustainability practices everyone can adopt. It's both remarkably simple—nature does most of the work—and profoundly impactful, addressing waste, soil health, and climate concerns simultaneously.

Remember that perfect composting isn't the goal; reducing waste and regenerating soil health is what matters. Even imperfect compost is better than no composting at all. Start with whatever system fits your space and lifestyle, and adjust as you learn—this flexible, forgiving approach aligns perfectly with our Eco Rhythm principles.

Regardless of where you live, composting is especially valuable. It diverts biodegradable waste from strained waste management systems, creates resilience against increasingly unpredictable weather patterns through improved soil, and reconnects us with the natural cycles that modern life often obscures.

Ready to start your composting journey?

Begin with these steps:

1. Choose a composting method that suits your space and needs
2. Set up your system in a convenient location
3. Start collecting kitchen scraps in a small countertop caddy
4. Balance your greens and browns from the beginning
5. Monitor moisture and aeration as your compost develops
6. Be patient—good compost takes time

Explore related resources:

• Gamify Composting – Becoming The Black Gold Tycoon
• The Science of Home Composting: How Organic Waste Becomes Garden Gold
• Choosing the Right Composting Method for Your Lifestyle
• Composting Success: Key Factors, Common Problems and Solutions
• Compostable Products: What Actually Breaks Down (And What Doesn’t)
• Compost Uses: How to Use Finished and Unfinished Compost in Your Garden

Connect with Echoing Green Earth:

• Browse our range of home compostable products designed to reduce plastic waste and add into your home composting bin at the end of product lifecycle
• Subscribe to our newsletter and join us on the journey towards sustainable living
• Share your composting journey with us on social media

By making your own compost, you're not just creating soil—you're rebuilding our connection to the earth, one kitchen scrap at a time. Welcome to the composting community and our Echoing Green Earth family!